Rachel In Mali

"Unless someone like you cares a whole awful lot nothing is going to get better, it's not." -Dr. Suess

10.29.2005

Tioribougou

Just got back into Bamako from "site visit." I've been completely spoiled in regards to travel. It took only an hour and a half by bache (ill explain public transport later...crazy stuff) on all paved roads. Not all the volunteers are so lucky! The PCTs in the Kayes region had to take the train because the roads are next to impossible. The APCD travelling with them explained that when the train slows down, it's because the conductor knows where the weak spots in the tracks are and if the train derails, at least they'll be going slow and won't get hurt. They made it there and back safely:)
I spent 3 days in my house in Tioribougou. It's the old Maternite of the village, so it's a cement structure with a tin roof (most houses are mud with thatch roofs). Tin roofs are great because they leak less often, but it's INCREDIBLY loud when it rains. You can't even talk to people. Rain here isn't like Seattle, though. It rains much harder but never lasts more than an hour...usually less. So all in all, Im very happy with my little house. It could use a paint job inside, but that can wait. The town is planning on building me a gwa, as well (thatch roof on sticks for a shady area outside). I'm about 20 ft away from the CSCom (community health center) where I'll be working and I'm right next to the main road the goes to Bamako. The town in beautiful...coconut trees, millet fields, and a nice market on Tuesdays. People there were so welcoming and friendly! I really want to get better at Bambara quickly in order to form better relationships. My host family cooked meals for me and Assitan, a Peace Corps language tutor who accompanied me, taught me how to make Jinjinberi.
Approximate recipe: Two ginger roots, 2 liters water, juice of 2 oranges, 1 tbls vanilla, half cup sugar (or more if you like...Malians like it VERY sweet, I don't) and lots of ice. Mash the ginger, add water and orange juice, mix, strain out ginger gunk, add vanilla and ice. It's a common drink for breaking the fast. That's right, ít's Ramadan right now and the good Muslims here fast from sun up until sun down. Fasting muslim style means nothing goes in your mouth... not even water. With this heat, nothing tastes better at sundown than cold jiniberi:)
I have one more month of training in Banankoro and Tubani So before I head off to Tioribougou for good. Ala ka tilen here caya!

10.09.2005

I ni sogoma!

I've been in Mali for 2 weeks and i've been loving it. The first week was spent at Tubani So, the Peace Corps Mali training site, which feels alot like summer camp. I share a little hut (with electricity) with Jen. An average day: breakfast at 7 (tea or instant coffee with condensed milk, french bread with peanut butter, and maybe a banana). Cross culture, health education tech, or personal health (everyone's favorite...we learn about worms, malaria, diarrhea, and all kinds of horrible stuff) classes from 8-12. Lunch is usually rice with sauce and meat, salad, and it's watermelon season! Life is good:) Siesta for the hotter part of the day, classes again from 2:30-5, rest/sports/bathe until dinner at 7. In the evenings we usually all gather around one of the guys who has a guitar and chat for hours.
We've also spent a week at homestays in villages not far from the capital, Bamako. I'm in Banankoro and my new name is Aminata Samake (Ami for short:)). My jatigi is wonderful! They are so generous and patient with my weak French and begining Bambara. The food they serve isn't great, but I don't go hungry. Everyday those of us in Banankoro (15 of 30...the rest are in Sanankoroba) meet for language class under the mango trees. It's so beautiful that it's surreal. I absolutley love our language professors. They are incredibly kind and helpful during this strange transitional stage. We often go to their house in the afternoons for very strong, very sweet green tea.
The heat hasn't been unbearable, but it's still the cooler season. Everyone stays in the shade and look out for us Toubabs (foreigners) when we don't know any better than to linger in the sun. I take lots of bucket baths, do my business in a whole in the ground, sleep under a mosquito net, eat with my hands, and love (nearly) every minute of it:)
We recieved our site announcements yesterday! Begining at the end of November, I'll be in Tiorobougou (pop. 4000) which is just 120km north of the capital and 20km south of my market town, Kolokani. There's a Catholic mission not too far away, as well:) I'll be openening up a new site (no PVCs before me) working in a local health clinic and living in an old maternite. Not sure what that means, but no electricity or running water. I'll probably get to Bamako (and the internet) at least once a month. Keep sending news of the good old USA! I miss you all...and good coffee.